Wednesday, October 08, 2003
Book: "Stolen Figs and Other
Adventures in Calabria"
Mark Rotella
The ANNOTICO Report
"Stolen Figs..." was reported on previously, but this book deserves
another visit.
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Thanks to H-ITALY, Paul Apria, Editor
Mark Rotella. _STOLEN FOGS AND OTHER ADVENTURES IN CALABRIA_.
Reviewed for H-Italy by Stanislao G. Pugliese
Department of History, Hofstra University
When I heard that there was yet another memoir of a person's stay in
Italy, I rolled my eyes in anticipation: surely this was another in
that genre of books by Americans, English or northern Europeans who
flee their inhospitable climes for the warmer shores of Italy. Once
there--usually Tuscany or Umbria--they would flower and open up to the
sensuousness of landscape, food and beautiful people.
Now this genre has produced some masterpieces such as Thomas Mann's
_Death in Venice_ or E. M. Forster's_Room with a View_, but lately the
genre has seemed tired and full of cliches. Thankfully, Mark Rotella's
_Stolen Figs_ is a different animal altogether: a clear-eyed study of
southern Italy and its hopelessly fascinating and frustrating
combination of amore/amare.
What shall we call this longing felt by children of immigrants to
return to Italy? Nostalgia would not be correct, since they have no
earlier memories of the _bel paese_. In fact, the image of Italy in the
minds of the children of immigrants is often more beautiful than the
memories that their parents or grandparents possess.
Contrary to the usualstereotype of the immigrant pining for the lost
homeland, it was not unusual for a day laborer, a _bracciante_, a
_morte di fame_, or a _scugnizzo_ to look back in scorn at a country
that had rejected millions of its own sons and
daughters. My maternal grandparents were landless day laborers who
proceeded to have four daughters. This was nothing less than an
economic catastrophe as daughters in Calabria, as late as the 1950s,
still needed a dowry of land and animals to marry; hence their flight
to the United States in 1954.
My mother--who spent the first two years of her life living in a cave,
seeking shelter from the aerial bombardments of World War II, still
looks back in fear of the snakes that occasionally dropped from the
olive trees during harvest time. My father left Rome, where he played
trumpet with the famous Bersaglieri band, and did not return to his
hometown in the province of Avellino until twenty years later. These
were
not atypical sentiments.
Mark Rotella's father also displays a certain reluctance when his son
suggests--_all'improvviso_--a quick visit to Gimigliano in Calabria,
the father's ancestral hometown. "Why go back to the past," the elder
Rotella asks. Located almost midway between the Tyrrhenian and Ionian
seas on the instep of the boot of Italy that is Calabria, Gimigliano is
not a town visited by tourists. Rotella, an editor at _Publishers
Weekly_, is not a tourist but a traveler, which is a different thing
altogether.
He is willing to point out Calabria's faults, beginning with its name:
"it sounds like a curse." Nor is the weather what travel agents might
suggest: the summer is lacerated by the sirocco wind from north Africa
and the winter soaked by freezing rains that have carried off millions
of tons of fertile topsoil, leaving a landscape in many places that is
best suited only for goats And there is the shadowy presence of the
"Ndrangheta," Calabria's version of the Sicilian Mafia or the
Neapolitan Camorra. Less dramatic than the Sicilians to the south or
the Neapolitans to the north, the Calabresi have acquired a
well-deserved reputation of _testa dura_.
For all its admitted problems, Rotella still loves Calabria. That love
is expressed through family ties, friendships forged and food shared.
As with any journey, there are moments of epiphany: as when, at a
roadside shrine to the Virgin Mary, Rotella recognizes in the face of
the Madonna the weather-beaten faces of the local population. Here
there are no saccharine Madonnas in the tradition of Raphael or the
northern Renaissance. Instead there is an abundance of churches
dedicated to
the Madonna Addolorata.
Despite his annual visits, Rotella, even though he has begun the
process to obtain dual citizenship, realizes that for all his longing,
he can never really be Calabresi or Italian. Commenting on the
difference between the gifts he would bring to relatives with those
reciprocated, he writes: "I brought my relatives what I thought they
needed; they gave gifts that they couldn't live without" (p. 107). For
those of us like
Rotella--born in the United States to Italian parents--we will perhaps
always feel more Italian in America and more American while in Italy.
Rotella's Virgil is Giuseppe Chiarella, a man who makes a modest living
by photographing Calabria for tourist postcards. The business of
visiting tourist stands owners to distribute the photographs and
collect his profits are an excellent excuse for Rotella to tag along
and explore the entire region, from the shores of Tropea and Scilla to
the plains of Spezzano Albanese to the peaks of the Aspromonte.
Chiarella is furbo and full of peasant wisdom. When they stop by the
roadside to feast on some figs and Rotella asks who owns the fruit,
Chiarella laconically replies that "there's nothing tastier than stolen
figs." (Having stolen a few figs myself in Calabria, I can confirm this
culinary truth.)
Supplemented by black and white photographs of Calabria by Chiarella
and a useful map by Steven Arcella, _Stolen Figs_ is a rare delight: a
true picture of southern Italy, with defects and virtues loving
rendered.
Copyright (c) 2003 by H-Net, all rights reserved. H-Net permits the
redistribution and reprinting of this work for nonprofit, educational
purposes, with full and accurate attribution to the author, web
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