Italy is experiencing a Rinascimento or at least a Risorgimento.

It started in 1963 when Italian wines were divided into four categories,
The top classification, DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), then DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), VdT (Vino da Tavola), and IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica).

The entire country of Italy - from the northeast to northwest, from the central
region to the south, to the islands of Sardegna and Sicilia - is a wine-producing area.
and makes Italy the world's No 1 wine producer.

Italy's vineyards, which make up 830,000 hectares, produce about 5.5 billion
litres - or 20 per cent of global production - of wine. Italy exports about 1.8 billion litres of wine annually.
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GAUNTLEYS OF NOTTINGHAM:

No country has undergone a greater transformation in its wine industry over the past 25 years than Italy.

We have spoken, albeit briefly, in our offer last year about the changes that have taken place here since the first D.O.C. was created in 1963. Firstly, also in the 1960s, the Mezzadria system was abolished. Under this 'self sufficiency' system peasant farmers worked a piece of land, on which they not only kept a small quantity of live stock but also grew a wide variety of crops including their own vines. Half their production would be given to the landowner by way of rent. The combination of this system ending and a quality wine regulation being created caused many landowners to swiftly uproot their old crops and replant with vine varieties which would conform to the requirements of the new D.O.C. regulations.

Not surprisingly, in this rush, many mistakes were made and varieties, root stocks and clones were planted which were certainly not suitable for the production of fine wine - even though they perhaps achieved the higher yields which were deemed important at that time. The authorities also encouraged growers to adopt high training methods to further increase the quantity of their production. Despite these errors, this was the turning point and a major inspiration behind the new strive for quality. However, although the D.O.C. bought much needed regulations, it was often the growers who chose not to comply who made the greatest improvements.

Fired with the ambition to produce great wine, these vignerons opted to plant unauthorised vines and adopt 'illegal' practices with regards to vinification and viticulture in order to achieve their goals. Many travelled to other wine producing countries in both Europe and the New World to study and learn from their techniques. Thus, there then followed a transformation in the cellar and winery. New presses, fermentation tanks and, in some cases, computers were installed and the old chestnut and acacia foudre were replaced with smaller oak casks for barrique ageing.

Finally, we are witnessing today, the first results of the next - and most important stage - the gradual redevelopment of the vineyards. As more and more vignerons show the desire to produce great wine they are uprooting their vines yet again to correct the mistakes made some thirty years ago. Careful consideration is given to variety, clone and rootstock, lower training methods and high density planting are being adopted.

Obviously, there cannot be instant results as the vines need some five years before they can start to be productive and many years more to reach their potential. However, the effects are already being felt - and as the wines from the growers below show, Italy is now capable of producing Premium wines to rival the world's finest.

Personally speaking however, I do have one concern. Italy has always produced talented and influential artists. Today, the nation has a new breed of artist - the oenologist. While the 'flying winemakers' from the New World have 'for better or worse', played a part in improving many of the cheaper Italian wines, it is Italy's own band of Consultants who are influencing the Premium Wine production.

Just as in the South of France, many Italian vineyards, have been purchased by wealthy professionals and businessmen, who have no experience of viticulture and thus need to employ their own oenologist or consultant. Hence a number of undoubtedly talented and passionate oenologists travel the length and breadth of the country aiding and advising growers.

The results are phenomenal and they are responsible for an enormous number of Italy's most exciting wines - indeed one or two of the wines we have selected are from just such a source. However, in addition to the variety, the terroir, vintage and the microclimate, etc, the most significant influence on the character of the wine must be the vigneron himself. Each consultant definitely gives the wine his own mark or style - and it is not too difficult to guess the identity of the 'hand upon the canvas'.

It is perhaps (although I have my reservations), all well and good forsaking a little typicity in order to 'clean up' the cheap wines and produce a 'standard, reliable product'. However, I am concerned that if this practice progresses we are in danger of losing some of the individuality and personality of the country's finest wines.

On a positive note however, apart from broadening my knowledge (which was not difficult), I returned from Italy with my hopes fulfilled and an even greater enthusiasm. My expectations were surpassed! After a run of uninspiring vintages from 1991 to 1994, the following three years were exceptional and afforded the country the opportunity to prove its worth. Indeed, Italy is producing some fantastic wines.

The best of these certainly do have their own individuality but also have the finesse and polish to put them into the same league as some of the greatest wines from France.

By  John Gauntley & Victoria Ross
An introduction to the fine wines of Italy
http://www.gauntley-wine.co.uk/latestoffers/ItalyRome/italian-wines-intro.html