San Franscisco Chronicle
Janet Fletcher
Thursday, July 22, 2004

When Americans discovered tiramisu, the Italian dessert, in the 1980s, they discovered mascarpone (mahs-car-POH-nay). In the ensuing two decades, American pastry chefs made up for lost time, dolloping mascarpone over strawberries, using it in ice cream or mixing it with chocolate to make a sour cream frosting. Many of us can not only pronounce it now (although it may still be the most mangled cheese name on the planet), we can buy mascarpone in our neighborhood grocery stores.

Purists say that mascarpone isn't truly a cheese because it contains neither a culture, nor rennet. But you will find it in the cheese case in many markets, so I consider it worth a look here. A luscious companion to the summer fruits that are at their peak now, mascarpone can turn figs, berries and peaches into a glamorous finale in five minutes.

A specialty of Lombardy in northern Italy, a region famous for Taleggio and other cow's milk cheeses, mascarpone is cheese on the fast track. Made from cream alone, or cream mixed with milk, it is thickened rapidly with an acid, such as citric or tartaric acid. The cream is warmed to about 185 degrees, then the acid is added and the mixture soon coagulates. It is left to ripen for a few hours to allow flavors to develop, then the whey is drawn off and the dense, spreadable mascarpone, as thick as frosting, is ready for sale.

I prefer the widely distributed Galbani brand from Italy over the domestic versions I've tried. The Galbani has a nutty flavor and is velvety smooth, with no hint of graininess. Because mascarpone contains no salt, it goes downhill quickly once the container is opened. Plan to use it within a week.

Whisk mascarpone a little to lighten it, then serve it over or under sugared summer fruit or poached peaches or pears. It's divine on warm fruit, such as baked figs or grilled nectarines. Italians serve it dusted with sugar and cocoa or grated chocolate. I also love Viana La Place's idea (from "Desserts and Sweet Snacks," William Morrow, 1998), of enjoying it on toast with orange marmalade. And of course there's always tiramisu.

As for wine, choose one that matches your dessert in sweetness. With a finale that is only lightly sweetened, such as poached peaches with mascarpone, a gently sweet Muscat or Riesling would work. A richer dessert will need a wine with more intensity, such as Quady Essensia, a lightly fortified wine from orange Muscat.

Sweet youth, thy name is mascarpone
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