Wednesday, April 27, 2005
Gelato - Each Bite a Cool Deep Burst of Flavored Pleasure Intoxicating our Taste Buds

The ANNOTICO Report

SO Italian: An evening passeggiata, a leisurely stroll, with a friend, to
your favorite gelateria, and exchanging pleasantries with friends and
neighbors.

SO Often we become so frenetic in our pursuit of enjoyment, over
complicating matters, so that we are blind to the fact that the simple joys
of life, are often the most rewarding, and best for our feeling of well
being, and the nurturing of the soul.


La Dolce Vita

Temple News
Student Newspaper of Temple University
Philadelphia, PA
By Felicia D’Ambrosio
Tuesday, April 26, 2005

Everyone knows Italians live better than Americans. They take long lunches
with family, drink vino with every dinner, and enjoy an afternoon siesta
without feeling guilty for not working. Part of the lush life of Italy is
the evening passeggiata, a leisurely stroll to your favorite gelateria with
a friend. The gelateria makes fresh, delicious gelato every day - it's the
Italian take on ice cream. However, there are several major differences.

Ice cream is just that - cream. Gelato is made with milk, and possesses a
lower fat and calorie content. Air is whipped into both frozen confections
in a machine, but gelato has much less air whipped into it. This creates a
denser product with much more flavor in each bite than in conventional ice
cream. Gelato is NOT the soft-serve that is heaped atop water ice at
Rita's.

Keeping these differences in mind, I think gelato is suffering from a
perceived value problem. Servings of gelato are smaller, since it is a
denser and more flavorful creation. They are also more expensive than your
standard Jack & Jill pint, since far more ingredients go into each bite.

At Capogiro Gelato Artisans, owners John and Stephanie Reitano are
determined to overcome the image hurdle and share this luscious Italian
treat with Philadelphia. The day I visited, Stephanie was in the basement
kitchen roasting peanuts and black walnuts for the next day's batches as
the staff gracefully mixed ingredients, cut fruit, and attended to the
gelato machine, dancing around each other in the tiny kitchen. Capogiro
uses only the most seasonal and local products available, and the milk
comes from grass-fed, hormone-free cows. This reflects the Italian
aesthetic of USING THE BEST POSSIBLE INGREDIENTS..

Capogiro sits at the corner of 13th and Sansom streets in the heart of
Center City. When you step inside, the toasty smell of La Columbe coffee
lures you right to the swooping glass cases full of homemade gelato
flavors. There are familiar friends, like Cioccolato Banana (chocolate
banana) or Nocciola (hazelnut), but Capogiro truly shines in its
unexpected, original creations like Basil or Moro (blood orange). Though
Basil may seem an odd choice for dessert, it is strikingly fresh and
carries the lightly sweet spice of the summery herb. Another concoction
that has gained notoriety is the Rosemary Honey Goat Milk, a gentle melding
of the sweet and woodsy.

Even if you dare not try the elusive Caped Gooseberry - a sweet member of
the tomatillo family - there will be a creamy confection that calls your
name. Gazing at the stainless-steel containers heaped with pastel gelato
and sorbetto is an exercise in approach-approach conflict, a psychological
term for being attracted to two goals simultaneously. Every single one
tempted a different pleasure. John dug mini plastic spoons into each
container, letting me try the various fruity or rich flavors. Each bite was
like a cool burst of clear flavor - clean green basil or satisfying coffee
alive on the palate. This is good stuff - it all tastes like it is made
with love.

Capogiro isn't just frozen fun. They offer handmade panini sandwiches like
Italian tonno (tuna) with artichoke hearts and black olive tapenade. There
is the full range of La Columbe coffee and espresso, and little Italian
chocolates and fruit jellies. With Capogiro's dainty café seating outside,
I can see it being an original, non-drinking, non-boring date spot.

The balmy weather of May has almost arrived, and long evenings designed for
walks in the park. The day after graduation, I will be strolling along
Rittenhouse like it's Roma, with my Pompelmo Rosso con Campari sorbetto,
enjoying the sweet life we were meant to live.

Felicia D'Ambrosio can be contacted at Caspian@temple.edu.

http://www.temple-news.com/news/
2005/04/26/OutAndAbout/La.Dolce.Vita
-937898.shtml