Sunday, June 04, 2006

Rome's Summer Becomes a Partying Phoenix.

The ANNOTICO Report

Rome used to die in the summer. With more Italians Vacationing in Italy, Rome instead comes vibrantly alive.

Oh yes there will be days at the Beach, and thepasseggiata , the aperitivo .......  But there is also,

Night Clubs moving outside to unusual venues, there are free concerts, exhibitions and performances throughout the city; the "Estate Romana" organization sets up a bewildering number of stunning events along theTiber riverbanks; diminutive Tiberina island, stacked with medieval buildings, resembles a floating festival, hosting bands, theater, markets and an open-air cinema. Outdoor cinema also fills Piazza Vittorio;

"Cosmophonies" puts on classical and contemporary dance, music and theater; "Festival EuroMediterraneo" takes over Villa Adriana, Emperor Hadrian's huge ruined palace, with theater, opera and dance. Inside the city, the "Teatro dell'Opera" performs at the  ancient Caracalla baths,while "The Miracle Players" put on plays at the Roman Forum.

There's the enchanting Jazz festival at Villa Celimontana, and "Roma Incontra il Mondo" (Rome Meets the World), a world music festival on the grounds of Villa Ada, and the grand finale to the Roman summer is "La Notte Bianca"




POSTCARD FROM
ROME
SUMMER REBIRTH
Los Angeles Times
Abigail Hole
Lonely Planet
June 4, 2006

Rome used to die in the summer. Those locals not working in tourism would flee the heat for their family foothold in the hills, the southern beaches or abroad. But Italy's economy has languished and people have had to cut back on holidays, with more Romans choosing to stay home for at least some of August. The Roman summer has sprung like a partying phoenix.

The city after dark
Stay-at-home locals make it through the summer swelter by spending the weekends at nearby beaches around
Ostia. Then, as the heat begins to fade, people emerge like nocturnal butterflies, dressed up and wandering out for an ice cream and the early evening passeggiata  (walkabout). For those who can't get enough of the beach, there are bars where you can watch the sunset over an aperitivo  (Milan's hippest import — pre-dinner drinks accompanied by a bar-sn! ack buffet) and free parties along the seafront after dark.

Arts policy pays off
It's not just the downturn that has reinvigorated the summer, but organizational developments too. Since his election in 2001, Mayor Walter Veltroni has been pursuing a left-wing, arts-promotional policy that has made
Rome more vibrant than at any time since the dolce vita of the '50s.

Rome by the river
From June to September, the Estate Romana organization sets up a bewildering number of stunning events. Under its auspices, the usually empty
Tiber riverbanks sprout market and food stalls. Bars bring in sand and deck chairs for a make-believe trip to the coast.

Movie madness
Diminutive Tiberina island, stacked with medieval buildings in the middle of the river, resembles a floating festival on sultry summer nights, hosting bands, theater, markets and an open-air cinema. Outdoor cinema also fills Piazza Vittorio, in
Rome's most multi! cultural — and slightly sleazy — quarter, with vast screens dominating a huge colonnaded square.

Out-of-town shows
In July, Cosmophonies puts on classical and contemporary dance, music and theater at the perfect little amphitheater in the extraordinarily well-preserved ancient Roman
port of Ostia Antica, 15 miles southwest of the city. Festival EuroMediterraneo takes over Villa Adriana, Emperor Hadrian's huge ruined palace, 20 miles northeast, from July to August, with theater, opera and dance. Inside the city, the Teatro dell'Opera holds its summer season in the ancient Caracalla baths, a backdrop of unparalleled drama. The Miracle Players put on free open-air summer plays in English — "Julius Caesar" at the Roman Forum is a favorite.

Jazz showcase
For a more staid but equally spectacular evening, there's the enchanting jazz festival at Villa Celimontana, a lush torch- and candle-lighted garden shaded by tall parasol pines, with top performer! s sizzling nightly in July and August. Time to sip Campari while listening to smoky sounds.

Roman Woodstock
Roma Incontra il Mondo (Rome Meets the World), from June to August, is a world music festival in the wild and lovely grounds of Villa Ada, alongside a small lake. With lights prettily bouncing off the water and the scent of hash floating through the air, this is where Rome's alternative set flocks and where you should head if you want to hear Malian musicians or perfect your dance of death to the tarantella music of the Italian deep south.

Clubs under the stars
During summer, most of
Rome's night life moves outside, with many clubs taking over unusual venues — nightclub La Maison's beautiful people spent a recent summer season strutting their stuff on the terrace of Mussolini's Palace of Justice. At the other end of the scale, Villaggio Globale is a squatter entertainment complex housed in an old slaughterhouse. During summer, it! spawns an encampment of outdoor clubs with a festival atmosphere — a "global village" that's a world away from the Eternal City that most visitors see.

Saturday freebies
The grand finale to the Roman summer is La Notte Bianca, bringing the whole city onto the streets in mid-September. Originally a Parisian initiative, the "White Night" is now a fixture in
Paris, Brussels and Rome. For one Saturday, there are free concerts, exhibitions and performances throughout the city, and bars, restaurants, shops, museums and galleries (including many not usually open to the public) open from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. As the saying goes: Roma, non basta una vita  (For Rome, one lifetime is not enough), so overnight sightseeing is probably a good idea.

To learn more
Tourist guides, area maps and accommodations can be found at http://www.rome-tourism.com . Film lovers can catch a summer fest at L'Isola del Cinema! beginning June 24 and running into August; 011-39-06-58-333-113. Music lovers can find information on upcoming events at Villa Celimontana Jazz, 011-39-199-10-97-83, http://www.villacelimontanajazz.com or Cosmophonies, http://www.cosmophonies.com . The Miracle Players perform original texts and comedy classics in English. Performance schedules at the Roman Forum are available at 011-39-06-703-93-427, http://www.miracleplayers.org . ....

http://www.latimes.com/travel/

la-tr-rome4jun04,1,398851.story?coll

=la-travel-headlines&ctrack=1&cset=true

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