Friday, September 08, 2006

The Super Italians: Super Tuscans joined by Super Venetians, Wine that is !

The ANNOTICO Report

The "Super Tuscan" phenomenon began in the 1970s when winemakers in Tuscany transcended legalities to create superior, interesting wines that were previously tagged, by default, with the modest "vino da tavola" designation.

This modern phenomenon has spread throughout Italy, and some of these "Super Italians" are among the country's best wines, combining tradition and innovation.

In this case,  the author is talking about a "Super Venetian".

 

Italians Know All About Gusto!

The Detroit News

Madeline Triffon

September 7, 2006

Sacchetto Rosso "Il Satiro" 2000 Veneto, $15.

Style: Full-flavored, dry and smooth, with dark cherry fruit, clove spice and licorice-anise hints.

"Veneto" is easy to remember, with the city of Venice, aka Venezia, on Italy's coast. In Italy's northeast, the province stretches up to the Austrian border, with Trentino-Alto Adige to the west and Friuli-Venezia Giulia to the east. It's one of the most exciting areas for blends that combine Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc with local varieties.

Full-flavored and mellow with exotic spice and black fruit, "Il Satiro" is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Raboso and other local grapes. Raboso is a red grape native to the Veneto. Its name is probably derived from "rabbioso" or "angry": oeno-gossip has it that Raboso has enough tannic bite and acidic snap to make Cabernet look like a pussycat! But as evidenced by this smooth, pretty wine, Raboso is tamed in the company of well-mannered Bordelaise varieties.

Those of us who enjoy Bordeaux-style wines have long discovered the delights of Super Tuscans, wines made from nontraditional varietals or crafted outside classic specifications. The "Super Tuscan" phenomenon began in the 1970s when winemakers in Tuscany transcended legalities to create superior, interesting wines that were tagged, by default, with the modest "vino da tavola" designation. This modern phenomenon has spread throughout Italy, and some of these "Super Italians" are among the country's best wines, combining tradition and innovation.

Cantine Sacchetto was originally founded by the late Sisto Sacchetto, who set up his vine-growing and winemaking trade in the early '20s. The company is now run by the second generation, and they recommend stewed game, ragz and bean dishes with Il Satiro. God bless the Italian palate, naturally trolling for perfect food affinities to match its cornucopia of wines! These suggestions sound deliciously appropriate, but we Americans can be confident that grilled chops and lightly spiced ribs will do the trick as well.

Proof is in the persistence!

Once you've trained yourself through tasting experience to recognize solid quality in wine, you can still be torn whether "to buy or not to buy."

So, what makes a wine really special? What distinguishes good wine from potentially great wine? Assessing wine is not unlike assessing people -- it's not really fair to pull the plug on a human being after one handshake and a brief conversation! Different folks show better under different circumstances, and wine is no exception to this sensible principle.

The structure of a wine hides a handy golden flag, a reliable tag for quality that will endure beyond "I'm yummy." The kicker is how long the flavor lasts on the palate after the liquid has made its way down one's throat. Wine professionals pay attention to this one aspect as much if not more than any other component.

Many years ago, one such British gent, an icon in the international wine community, was observed at a tasting with his wife silently sitting to his side. After swirling, nosing and spitting, he would turn to her and make a quiet comment, after which she would pen a note. Turns out, she had a stopwatch and was noting the number of seconds the finish lasted!

No, we don't all have to start carrying around a kitchen timer. But it's useful to remember that, though a short finish doesn't bury a wine's ability to deliver pleasure, a long aftertaste is the bell ringer for quality that's a cut above the norm.

Madeline Triffon is wine director for the Matt Prentice Restaurant Group. To comment on this column, e-mail eats&drinks@det news.com.

 

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