Wednesday,
May 02, 2007
Fausto de Stefani #13, Silvio Mondinelli #14 in Elite 14x8,000ers Summiteers’ List?
The
ANNOTICO Report
The
Elite of Mountain Climbers have a List of 14 Summits that exceed 8,000 meters
in height (26,000 ft +) around the world that they must climb to become a
member of the group.
The
14 include: Everest (8848); K-2 (8611); Kangchenjunga
(8586); Lhotse (8516); Makalu ( 8485); Cho Oyu
(8188); Dhaulagiri (8167); Manaslu (8163); Nanga
Parbat (8125); Annapurna (8091); Gasherbrum I (8080); Broad Peak
(8050); Gasherbrum II ( 8034); Shisha
Pangma (8027).
Currently
there are 12 Mountaineers that have accomplished that feat. It was Reinhold Messner
of Italy that was the FIRST to ascend ALL 14 Summits (in
1986). Sergio Martini
was the SEVENTH of the current TWELVE to ascend all, in 2000.
The
current story is that Fausto de Stefani and Sergio
Martini claimed to have reached the summit of
Sergio
Martini reacted to the 1997 controversy by launching a further
Fausto de
Stefani stung by the attack on his integrity, and just one peak from Elite company, turned his back on climbing for ten years! Now he
is back for vindication, and is in full scale attack on the 4th tallest peak,
but beset by the death of one of his Sherpas.
Should Fausto make it, he would become the 13th climber to be
included in the list of 14x8000ers summiteers, ahead of the strongest candidate
at the moment: Fellow Italian Silvio Mondinelli,
who will climb his last pending mountain,
Of
additional important note, Italian lady climber Cristina Piolini, currently
working with the Italian research team at Ev-K2-Cnr (the glass
pyramid located half a day walking from Everests BC), has some
ambitious climbing plans of her own: She hopes to attempt Everest without
supplementary O2, (oxygen), and then give Lhotse a try as well.
As
an aside, while it was Edmund Hillary that gets great acclaim for his ascent of
Everest, the highest summit in 1953, little is heard of the first ascenders of
the 2nd highest K-2, Ardito Desio,
Achille Campagnoni, and
Lino Laceddelli all of Italy, in 1954. Second place
is like kissing your sister. :)
'Fellowship
of the Rope'
Fausto de
Stefani back for
Changes
ahead on the 14x8,000ers Summiteers’ list?
Mt
Everest.net
May 01,
2007
Fausto de
Stefani never minded statistics he
always claimed to have reached the summit of
Sergio Martini, Fausto's
climbing partner reacted to the 1997 controversy by launching a further
Italian Fausto de Stefani, whose claims to have summited all 14 8,000ers was
rejected by statisticians after an unclear climb on Lhotse back in 1997, is
back to clean up his r esume and properly enter the
list of high altitude masters. Fausto is climbing
with younger Roberto Manni, while with long time
friend Sergio Martini is accompanying them for most of the ascent but then heading for Everest.
1997:
Foot-prints in a blizzard
Fausto and Sergio climbed Lhotse together in 1997 they stated to believe they reached the
highest point, but a strong blizzard during the summit day prevented them from
getting good images or checking out reference points. Soon afterwards, another
climber on the spot declared to have seen the Italians foot-prints
stopping before the summit, and thus Sergio and Faustos
claims were not accepted.
Sergio reacted by launching a further
Back to shut up some mouths?
Fausto never minded statistics he always claimed to have reached the
summit, but didnt took much time or effort to
fight back the opinion of those denying it. Hesitant about talking to media and
the climbing show-bizz, he got involved in several
hum anitarian projects in
De Stefani may have changed his mind about stats, he
may have got tired of being asked the same question about his achievements time
after time. He may just want to take another look at
Should Fausto made it, he
would become the 13th climber to be included in the list of 14x8000ers
summiteers, ahead of the strongest candidate at the moment: Fellow Italian Silvio Mondinelli, who will climb
his last pending mountain,
Sergio and the "Fellowship of the Rope"
Fausto, Sergio and Roberto are sharing permit with SummitClimb Lhotse team. Recently, the Italian expedition
suffered a severe set-back when Dawa, one of their
climbing Sherpas, fell to death in a crevasse between
C2 and C3.
"Sergio Martini was extremely upset by what happened and was wonderful in
his efforts to help bring the body down to BC, and see it loaded onto the
helicopter back to Kathmandu," SummitClimb team member Philip Ling, from Australia, told ExplorersWeb. "In Sergio's case the 'Fellowship of
the Rope' is still very much alive. He is a true gentleman."
In spite of Dawa's death, the expedition decided to
go on with the ascent. SummitClimb team has lent the
Italians one of their climbing Sherpas to work with
them....
Italian lady climber Cristina Piolinis plans: No O2 Everest+Lhotse
Prior to SummitClimb confirmation, the news was
broken by Italian lady climber Cristina Piolini,
currently working with the Italian research team at Ev-K2-Cnr (the glass
pyramid located half a day walking from Everests BC), and with some
ambitious climbing plans of her own: She hopes to attempt Ever est without supplementary O2, and then give Lhotse a try as
well, as she told Montagna.tv. Cristina attempted
Sergio Martini was born on July
29, 1949 in Trento,
Fausto de
Stefani was born in 1952 in Mantova region,
The
Chart below shows their Final Ascent, and the
date they ascended their first of the 14, and the date they ascended their
last.
1 |
MESSNER |
Reinhold |
It |
|
27-Jun-70 |
16-Oct-86 |
2 |
KUKUCZKA |
Jerzy |
Pl |
SHISHA PANGMA |
4-Oct-79 |
18-Sep-87 |
3 |
LORETAN |
Erhard |
CH |
KANGCHENJUNGA |
10-Jun-82 |
5-Oct-95 |
4 |
CARSOLIO |
Carlos |
Mex |
MANASLU |
13-Jul-85 |
12-May-96 |
5 |
WIELICKI |
Krzysztof |
Pl |
|
17-Feb-80 |
1-Sep-96 |
6 |
OIARZABAL |
Juanito |
E |
|
15-May-85 |
29-Apr-99 |
7 |
MARTINI |
Sergio |
It |
|
4-Aug-83 |
19-May-00 |
8 |
PARK |
Young-Seok |
SK |
K 2 |
16-May-93 |
22-Jul-01 |
9 |
UM |
Hong-Gil |
SK |
SHISHA PANGMA |
26-Sep-88 |
21-Sep-01 |
10 |
IQURRATEGI |
Alberto |
E |
|
30-Sep-91 |
16-May-02 |
11 |
HAN |
Wang-Yong |
SK |
|
28-Sep-94 |
15-Jul-03 |
12 |
VIESTURS |
Edmund |
|
|
18-May-89 |
12-May-05 |
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