WITH its miles
and miles of breathtaking trails, the Cinque Terre along northern Italy's
Friday
4
p.m.
1) GAIN SOME PERSPECTIVE
Before you start
connecting your Cinque Terre dots, bouncing from one village to the next, take
a 15-minute uphill trek through gorgeous vineyards, to the Santuario della Madonna di Montenero
(entrance is a five-minute drive west of Due Gemelli,
a hotel at Via Litoranea, 1; 39-0187-920-111). The
storybook journey, replete with fragrant wildflowers and colorful butterflies,
is topped with uninterrupted views that allow visitors to size up the region's
entire 11-mile coastline from 1,100 feet above sea level. The sanctuary, an
active church with a pink and yellow bell tower, is a spectacular example of
the 14th-century buildings that put these small towns on the map.
5:30
p.m.
2) LOVERS' WALK
Drive down to Riomaggiore proper, park your car and head downhill to explore
its marina. Then double back to the main drag and look for signs pointing to
the village's biggest attraction: the Via dell'Amore,
the first segment of the Sentiero Azzurro
or the Blue Trail - a five-hour and somewhat challenging hiking trail that connects all
five hamlets (5 euros for a daily pass). Connecting Riomaggiore
and Manarola, this patch is just a leisurely stroll,
offering a relatively flat coastal path that was carved into the mountain
almost a century ago. The inspiring views and romantic nooks have earned it the
nickname, the Path of Love. What will you really love? It' s super easy.
7
p.m.
3) TASTE TEST
The tiny town of
8:30
p.m.
4) FAMILY-STYLE DINING
For a taste of a
home cooking, head to Trattoria dal Billy (Via Rollandi, 122; 39-0187-920-628), a quaint three-story
restaurant tucked into Manarola's lush mountainside.
An enchanting climb through the village's mazelike alleyways leads to a set of garden terraces where you can
sample local specialties like anchovies with salt or lemon, and taglierini with tomato, pecorino, pine nuts, baby shrimp,
pepper and olive oil (both 8 euros). Sweeping vineyard and sea views abound.
Saturday
10
a.m.
5)
With three towns
to hit in one day, take the quick regional train via the Spezia line (www.ferroviedellostato.it,
1 euro) to Corniglia, the
smallest and most remote of the five villages. Forgo the 365-step climb to its
tourist-filled center. Instead take the road much less traveled, to the
clothing-optional private beach, Guvano,
that only locals seem to know about. It's not easy to find: above and to the
right of the train platform head down a narrow flight of stairs, follow a brick
coastal wall and turn right, until you come to an industrial tunnel with a
metal gate. Ring the bell to the left. Someone on the other end will buzz you
in. Walk through the 10-minute-long path to a private vineyard overlooking two
p henomenal beaches. Pay the gatekeeper 5
euros for your little slice of sunbathing heaven. Be sure to stock up on water
and snacks at the train station; there are no concession shacks at the beach.
1:30
p.m.
6) SQUARE MEAL
Vernazza, the next village over,
could certainly nab Miss Congeniality in a Cinque Terre pageant. Everything
from its historical attractions and manageable size to its somewhat chic vibe
make this port arguably the most agreeable of the five towns. From the train
station, walk along Via Visconti, the town's bustling main street, until you
reach its adorable main square. Have a leisurely lunch at Trattoria Gianni Franzi (Piazza
G. Marconi, 1; 39-0187-821-003), a 45-year-old institution that still serves
scrumptious dishes like ravioli with fish sauce (13 euros) or baked fish with
potatoes (20 euros). Finish things off with a glass of limoncino
(3.50 euros),
3
p.m.
7) HIGHS AND BUYS
With a full belly
and a slight buzz, you'll want to check out these sights in the following
order: Santa Margherita d'Antiocha, a 1318 church
built on sea rock with an odd facade that seems to turn its back on the piazza;
the lookout towers of the 11th-century Castello Doria (1.50 euros) where you'll be rewarded with
magnificent aerial views of the entire region; and La Cantina del Molo (Via Visconti, 27; 39-0187-812-302), a high-end enoteca that sells the most divine delicacies, along with
wines from the owner's vineyards.
5:50
p.m.
8) SAIL AWAY
You've been
stealing glimpses of the
8:30
p.m.
9) A MODERN FISH TALE
Traditional Ligurian cuisine, while entirely delectable, can also get
repetitive. For something regional yet refreshing, head to L'Ancora della Tortuga (Salita
Cappuccini, 6; 39-0187-800-065), a new spot housed in
a converted bunker that was used during World War II. The contemporary kitchen
specializes in fish dishes, including a seafood carpaccio
with country vegetables (11 euros) and the daily catch served on grapevine
leaves (12 euros). Be sure to reserve one of three tables that overlook the
sea, or a spot on the upstairs terrace.
10:30
p.m.
10) BEACH PARTIES
You didn't come
to the Cinque Terre to party, but if you're looking to keep the torch burning
in Monterosso al Mare, you might be in luck. During
the warmer months, day trippers and locals alike will stage beach parties along
the Via Fegina. All are welcome. Or mix with the
congenial crowds at one of the mellow, pub-style bars on Via Roma in the
historical district.
Sunday
8:30
a.m.
11) DOUBLE DELIGHT
The sweet and
savory goodness at Il Frantoio
(Via Goberti, 1; 39-0187-818-333) should be enough of
a reason to get you up before your alarm clock rings. Bring your euro coins to this unassuming alleyway shop and make a
breakfast of its unique dolci castagnina -
warm circular pastries baked with chestnuts, salt, milk, pine nuts and raisins
(1.60 euros each). Be sure, too, to grab a selection of the superior focacce to go (1.50 euros a square). The varieties are
endless, and they'll make for the perfect lunch at the beach later on.
11
a.m.
12) GET YOUR GLAM ON
Soak up the
town's biggest selling point: it's Riviera-ness! Not
far from the entrance up to Convento dei Cappuccini monastery, you'll
find the Bagni Eden beach club (Via Fegina,
7-11; 39-0187-818-256), a postcardlike world of
colorful chaise longues (with matching umbrellas),
turquoise water and bronzed beauties playing Kadima
paddle ball. For 16 euros you get the chaise longue,
umbrella and use of the changing cabin. Pellegrino, focaccia
and salty air never tasted so jet set, especially after all that hiking.
VISITOR
INFORMATION
The closest
airports are in Genoa
or
Leave your car at
the Autosilos
garage, at the tip of Riomaggiore, and
retrieve it at the end of your trip (40 euros for two days). Driving is not
permitted within the villages. Shuttle around by foot, by train (one-day pass
for 5 euros) or by ferry (except to and from the port-less Corniglia).
Lodging is scarce
in Manarola, so book
early to snag one of the 10 rooms at Ca' d'Andrean (Via
Discovolo, 101; 39-0187-920-040; www.cadandrean.it),
a charming hotel converted from an old oil press and wine cellar. The
lemon-tree garden and cozy fireplace
lounge are nice bonuses. Doubles start at 92 euros.
Expect a wider
range of hotels in Monterosso al Mare. Avoid the well-worn
warhorses and opt for the sharp new Hotel Margherita
(Via Roma, 72; 39-0187-808-002, www.hotelmonterosso.it), the
closest thing to a boutique hotel in the area. The 25 rooms have plasma-screen
TVs, cosmopolitan mini-bars and luxurious bathrooms. Rates begin at 90 euros.
There are few
ATMs and many places don't accept credit cards, so take cash.