Friday, September 28

Things I've Learned Since Living in Italy

The ANNOTICO Report

 

These observations are very amusing, insightful, yet not demeaning.

 


Things I've learnt about Italy since living in Italy

 

 Emma Bird

How to Italy

 

I thought about what I've learnt over the various years of being in Naples, Bologna, Milan, Cagliari and now Cannigione, Sardinia.

 

In a foreign country, you are the odd one out. No one needs you as they all have their own busy lives and their own circle of friends. To make friends and establish a life, you have to make the effort. You have to go out even when you are tired.

 

You have to get used to walking into rooms full of strangers where you don't know anyone. And you have to start talking to people you never normally would talk to. You have to talk without worrying about what's coming out of your mouth. If you wait to speak the perfect sentence in Italian, you're not going to get anywhere. Open your mouth, be prepared to be mortified by the words that come out and get on with it. It's the only way to get fluent.

 

You need to forget all the dining etiquette you've been brought up with, especially if you're English and eat peas on the back of your fork. Italians don't use knives. They use forks in the right hand and they eat peas as you should do really - on the curved part. Oh, and don't put your hands in your lap when you're not eating. It's not polite as it would be in the UK. It's very, very bad etiquette.

 

You have to say 'permesso' everytime you enter someone's house or you go into a shop or an office and no one is in the room. You can actually do this for every room you enter into to, if you haven't actually been invited.

 

It takes a long time to make friends with Italians. To you they are laidback, gregarious and social creatures that made you fall in love with Italy in the first place, but that's where first impressions aren't what they seem. Yes, Italians are laidback, gregarious and social but try to build up a friendship and they scurry away and don't want to know. There are exceptions to the rule: students and housemates will be friends with you without a problem and so will ragazzi or ragazze that want to date you. Otherwise, play by their game. Be friendly but don't necessarily try to be friends. At some point it will happen.

 

Italians act with an air of authority even though they have no idea whether or not that is the case. This often happens in public office and the post office. Last week I had to get the document to pay the ICI - Italy's version of property tax. The person in the tax office told me I hadn't paid the refuse tax because it wasn't on the computer. Now, he didn't say 'how strange, it's not coming up'. He said 'no, you haven't paid. The computer doesn't lie'. Oh, but it does because I was waving a photocopy of said bill in his face. It turns out it was in a pile to be formatted and he hadn't quite got around to it. Never take anything that Italians in public offices maintain is true and always have printed out documents proving that you are, indeed, right.

 

Italians cannot go out to the beach and then out to dinner. They have to go home and have a shower first even though they may be starving. This isn't a quick 5-minute shower either because you must dry your hair with a hairdryer before you go out otherwise you will catch a cold even though it is a warm summer's evening. If you all go out to the beach together and then they come back to your house for dinner, you will end up providing clean towels for everyone to have a shower before dinner and, of course, they must dry their hair. In comparison, I'm a heathen Brit because I'm quite happy to have a shower once they've gone while they give me strange looks because I'm having dinner without having washed all that seasalt off my body first.

 

If you are a Brit you are not allowed to give blood because you may have Mad Cow Disease simmering away somewhere in your body. I can accept the logic somehow, apart from the fact I'm vegetarian and therefore the slim possibility of having KJD becomes even slimmer. The Italian health service desperately needs blood donors but yet they turn down blood from healthy people. If the British health system turned people down, they wouldn't have any blood at all.

 

Italians have a serious love of English words. So when you don't use the Italian, use the English. But do make sure you use it in a convincing manner and not like you've just forgotten the Italian. So throw in coffee break...drink...management...meeting...holiday' and you'll be the epitome of chic.

 

You never ever go into a bar and wait to be served. You wait to catch the waiter's eye and shout out your order. But coming out with a phrase like 'potrei avere un cappuccino per cortesia' (could I have a cappuccino, please is a sure way of highlighting your foreign status. Far better to say 'un cappuccino' or 'un cappuccino, grazie'. And you only need to say 'grazie' the once. If you're British you need to delete your heritage at least temporarily and learn to limit the amount of times you say 'please' and 'thank you'.

 

In a business interview, it is important to come across as sociable and trustworthy. So throw those arms in the air, make lots of eye contact and smile. Then, while the Italians are beginning to trust you, subtley show off your knowledge.

 

In the southern Italy and the islands, it is as if you step back in time. If you are a woman and in a couple, you will be ignored and people will talk to your other half. Thus, landlords will say 'Please tell X, I need to see him about the gas bill'. They can't possibly talk to you because you are invisible. But keep insisting that they can talk to you and they will finally see you exist after all.

 

Italians love having foreign friends because it ups their 'cool' status. But as a Brit or American you cannot possibly be expected to know how to dress or what to wear. Italian friends will, of course, think that they themselves are immaculate and that you should copy them. The fact that you might hate their style is irrelevant. Friends will then touch your hair and touch your clothes and then forget that you are even there as they discuss what 'lei' (she) should be doing with her hair and which hairdresser she should use - I love my Italian friends to bits but can you tell this last point bugs me big time?

 

You can learn a lot from the Italians' mentality. Yes, they may be rather late for a lot of things but I no longer knock it. It can be stressful seeing them flit about and juggle appointments but spend some time observing them over the course of a week and you'll see that they still fit everything in. And besides, that's the flip side of the wonderful laidback lifestyle.

 

Never ever invite a big group of Italians out for your birthday as you'll end up paying. And if you have a party at your house, be prepared to pay for everything. It's rare for an Italian to turn up at a party bearing gifts of food and drink.

 

In meetings, you should always present your business card at the beginning rather than the end. Hold it in both hands and present it personally to the person you are giving it to. Keep it in your hand for several seconds to allow the receiver time to take in all your details.

 

Italian weddings are very very expensive. You're normally expected to give at least Eur100 in cash regardless of how well you know the bride and groom. And beware if you're asked to be a testimone (witness). That's a big-time honour. The bride or groom don't buy you a gift to thank you for doing the deed. Instead, you buy them a nice expensive present to thank them for asking you to do it.

 

Italians are wary of email. If you need an urgent reply than phone or text. Both will solicit an immediate response whereas you may not get a reply to email for several days.

 

Working from home is not common in Italy and Italians, by and large, don't get it. The 'bella figura' is oh-so-important in Italy so what could be more bella than showing off how rich and successful you are than having a swish city-centre office regardless of whether or not you actually need it?

 

Italians love their ponti (bridges) as do expats who live in Italy. These aren't bridges of the architectural type, but long weekends when you have a public holiday. In Italy, public holidays don't fall on the Monday or Friday but on the exact date. Say the public holiday was on Tuesday. Italians will take the Monday off work as well. I was living in Milan in 2003 and it was a great year for ponti. What with the combination of Easter, Liberation Day and May 1, it was a whole two week festa. This year we've not had many ponti because all the holidays have fallen on weekend. Che sfiga...

 

Italians will tell you something with absolute conviction. So much so that you believe them every single time. All told, I've been in Italy for seven years and I still fall for this one.

 

If Italians have something important to tell you, it will be done face-to-face. Never bring up the subject of money on the phone or in email. It is always always discussed face-to-face and always at the very end of the conversation. You will meet in a bar, have aperitivi and proceed to small talk for at least 20-25 minutes. At the very very end of the conversation as you are about to pay the bill and walk out, money is mentioned. I'm not sure why. I mean, you know you are there to talk about money as does the other person, so why not save time and mention it straight away?

 

You can't go out with friends for dinner and sit and listen to the conversation. They will be worried that you are on your deathbed or that something is seriously the matter with you. Periodically wave your hands about and add some comments to reassure them.

 

Italians are hypochondriacs and are experts on every single health problem going. Keep a thermometer handy because whenever you feel a bit under par, you will be asked what your temperature is. Sticking a hand on your forehead will not do. Ever. You must also have your heart monitored before you join a gym or a swimming pool and check that you are fit enough. This applies even if you intend to do only a few leisurely lengths and not hurtle Olympic-style down the length of the pool.

 

Italians are also colour experts. You've probably never seen a Dulux colour chart in Italy because Italians have no need for them. To an Italian, your cream jumper isn't cream. It is one of the following caffelatte (milky coffee, or rather, very very milky coffee), panna (cream), crema (vanilla ice-cream colour) or ecru. Similarly, your pink top will never be pink. It will be rose, fuschia, petal-pink, shell-pink and so on.

 

It is illegal to drive outside of built-up areas without your car headlights on. Even on a bright summer's day in Sardinia when the light is blinding. But rules are rules. Funny how you have to stick to some rules but can break others, eh?

 

You can never book a hotel months in advance. Italians like to keep their options open so they aren't too fond of letting you book if there could be a more attractive offer around the corner. Last-minute is always best.

 

Italians travel in convoy. It takes forever to get anywhere. If a group of friends are going out for the day, you must all meet at one person's house. Everyone must get out of the car, shake hands or kiss each other. You then pile back in the car and ensure that the cars are travelling together. Periodically - and at least every hour - you will all pull into a layby for no other reason than to check that everyone is okay. This, of course, could be done by phone but it isn't. Once you have ensured that everyone is fine, no one is sick, no one is lost and everyone is happy, you will go on your way. You'll arrive at your destination just before it's time to make the return journey home.

 

You must wear plastic gloves for touching fruit and vegetables. I'm not sure why Italians go along with this one because they wash the fruit when they get home anyway. I do, too, for that matter. What I don't do - unlike my beloved Italian friends - is get out some fruit washing solution and soak the fruit and veg for 10 minutes. I'm not sure they approve of me merely rinsing it under the cold tap. In fact, that's probably why they turn down my offer of fruit after lunch.

 

Italy has some of the most gorgeous coastline in the world but few Italians swim in it. Instead, they walk out to stand and talk to their friends. The swimming part rarely happens. Italians look on in disbelief should you actually decide to swim and get your hair wet.

 

Italian children aren't fussy when it comes to food. They eat everything. Those horrible tins of mushed up food seem to bypass the mouths of Italian babes. Instead they are fed pasta, soup, icecream and tiny bits of fish and meat. And they don't eat before their parents. If dinner is at 9pm, the children eat at 9pm, too.

 

Walking around barefoot in the house is frowned upon. Your feet will get dirty and you will make the bed dirty. I've lost count of the number of times my feet have been inspected by various boyfriends over the years. Likewise, you should never pack/unpack your suitcase on the bed. The wheels of the suitcase have been on the floor and you will transfer the dirt to where you sleep.

 

Italians think nothing of discussing their toilet habits with strangers. Hemmoroids, by default, are also popular in small talk. And what do you know? Accountants who didn't know each other even managed to discuss them over cocktails yesterday evening. I tried to keep a straight face. I really did.

 

Italians shun conventional wisdom that it is better to cover up in the sun. They believe you are ill if you are pale and rather nicely describe you as bianco come una mozzarella (as white as mozzarella) or palido come un cadavere (as pale as a corpse). After all this time in Italy, I now get my cheeks pinched whenever people see me in the summer as they say compliment me for no longer resembling mozzarella or dead people. I'm not sure when the transformation happened as I wear sunscreen all year around and factor 60 from april through to November.

 

Italian girls take a little bag to the beach with all of their sun creams and oils in. Me and you obviously only use one or two spf factors but not Italian beauties. You need a low one for your legs because they tan slowly, a higher one for your feet because walking about in flip flops means the sun is always on them, a not-to-high one for your face, and a lowish one for your arms, and a very very low one (SPF 1, 2 or 5) for your abs which are hardly ever exposed. This ensures an even tan all over. But that's not the end of it. Oh no. Next up is the oil for the hair and the freshwater spray for the legs to boost circulation while frying in the sun.

 

Italian mammas and babbos don't like their wee ones to get sandy feet once they've got dressed to go home. So said child will be hoisted up by the arms, carried down to the beach and be made to dip their feet in the sea until all sand has gone. Then, they will be carried back to the towel to dry off and put their shoes on to walk back to the car. My sandy barefoot walk back home doesn't pass muster.

 

Italians don't do light lunches at the beach. It's not uncommon to see families under their gazebos as they get out their pasta salad, prosciutto, mozzarrella and tomato salad and fruit and then round it all off with an espresso that they heat up on their little camper stove. Gosh! No wonder Italians can't go in the sea for three hours after eating.

 

It's considered 'brutta figura' to open your door in your pjs after 9am - even to your own family. Heavens! What would they say if they saw me working in my pjs sans make up during the day?

 

Italians can never ever make firm social arrangements. It could be a party or a day out at the beach but you won't know who will be there until the event is in full swing. As the popular detto (saying) goes: Chi c'è, c'è. Chi non c'è, non c'è. Who is there is there. Who isn't there, isn't there. Painfully obvious but oh-so-true.

 

Families often employ a 'badante' to look after their widowed or divorced dad. This is not because he is in ill health and unable to look after himself. It's simply because he doesn't know how. Even Mario's mum can't spend a day away from the house because his dad wouldn't know how to prepare his own lunch. Luckily for me, Mario doesn't take after him.

 

Italians seem to have been born with a gene for rustling up large gourmet meals at a moment's notice. I still have no idea how they can find all the ingredients in their cupboard. But they do.

 

Italian children share bedrooms right up into their twenties. One of my friends who is 31 still shares a bedroom with her 28-year-old sister. Their narrow twin beds are a mere 50cm apart and in the same position as they were all those years ago. So much for personal space.

 

The ANNOTICO Reports Can be Viewed (and are Archived) on:

Italia USA: http://www.ItaliaUSA.com [Formerly Italy at St Louis] (7 years)

Italia Mia: http://www.ItaliaMia.com (3 years)

Blog: http://AnnoticoReport.com

Annotico Email: annotico@earthlink.net