Thursday,
December 06, 2007
Burrata:
Luscious Cousin of Mozzarella; Molten Chocolate Cake of Cheese
The
ANNOTICO Report
The
whole country seems to have gone burrata (boo-RAH-tah) crazy. For the uninitiated, the cheese looks, at first
glance, like a ball of fresh mozzarella with a tiny topknot. But cut into it
and the center, a tangy core of cream and stracciatella
("little rags") of mozzarella curds, oozes onto the plate.
In
short: It's the molten chocolate cake of cheese. Once you have it, you need to
have it again
Ten years ago, most Americans
- even those who wouldn't dream of serving anything but real buffalo mozzarella
on their caprese salad - had never heard of burrata. Invented in
The Latest Trend in Cheese is Creamy Italian Burrata
Yet
another call about burrata has Sarah Arbury a little on edge. As manager of Cheesetique,
a gourmet cheese shop in
"It's
good and everything, but I'm not clear about why people are so insane over
it," Arbury said. "Part is probably the
super-soft creaminess. Part is the romance: It comes from
Whatever
it is, the whole country seems to have gone burrata
(boo-RAH-tah) crazy. For the uninitiated, the cheese
looks, at first glance, like a ball of fresh mozzarella with a tiny topknot.
But cut into it and the center, a tangy core of cream and stracciatella
("little rags") of mozzarella curds, oozes onto the plate.
In
short: It's the molten chocolate cake of cheese. Once you have it, you need to
have it again. "We sell 150 orders a week," says Dean Gold, co-owner
of Dino in
Ten
years ago, most Americans - even those who wouldn't dream of serving anything
but real buffalo mozzarella on their caprese salad -
had never heard of burrata. Invented in
But
this is burrata's breakout moment. Sales are
rocketing, retailers and distributors say. Cheese retailer Cowgirl Creamery,
which offers burrata at its
Unlike
more-famous cheeses, burrata doesn't have a
well-charted history. (Of seven cheese reference books we consulted, two
mention burrata.) It originated in
To
make it, artisans stretch warm mozzarella into rectangles, then
fill them with mozzarella scraps and a little cream. The package is then tied
up and, traditionally, wrapped in the leaves of an asphodel, a relative of the
leek. The idea, says Salvatore Santomauro of Di Palo
Fine Foods in
Burrata's journey to global consciousness has been slow in
part because Italian food remains steadfastly regional. But it's also because burrata just doesn't travel well. Purists say it must be
eaten within 48 hours, preferably the same day it is made. Indeed, the original
purpose of the asphodel leaves was to signify whether the cheese is past its
prime; if the leaves are dry, it's too late.
Cowgirl
Creamery's
Burrata is also on offer at new, trendy mozzarella bars that are
popping up around the globe. Obika, which claims it
was the first, opened in
All
of which means that more people will come to know and probably love burrata. Which, perhaps counterintuitively, means that burrata
will be easier to find.
The
higher the demand, the more willing restaurants and retail shops will be to
offer it, and the easier it will be for burrata
addicts to get their fix.
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