Monday,
March 17, 2008
The
ANNOTICO Report
700
years ago,
Today,
Find
the nation's soul in
Grab a gelato and join in the evening stroll. You'll end up at the town's
glorious red brick main square, Il Campo. Lean up against a pillar as the
setting sun plays games with the colors of the stone and the sky. At twilight,
first-time poets savor that magic moment when the sky turns into a rich blue
dome as bright as the medieval tower that holds it high.
To say that
The people cut it to pieces and buried it along the walls of
Today,
For those who dream of a Fiat-free
This great central piazza is urban harmony at its best. Like a people-friendly
stage set, its gently tilted floor fans out from t he tower and city hall
backdrop. It's the perfect invitation to loiter. Think of it as a trip to the
beach without sand or water. Don't miss the Fountain of Joy at the square's
And if you are atop that tower on July 2 or Aug. 16, you'll see a vast square
jammed with people, as the city hosts
During each Palio, 10 of the 17 neighborhoods compete
(chosen by rotation and lot), hurling themselves with medieval abandon into
several days of trial races and traditional revelry. Jockeys are considered
hired guns, paid mercenaries. But on the big day, the horses are taken into
their neighborhood church to be blessed. "Go and return victorious,"
says the priest. (It's considered a sign of luck if a horse leaves droppings in
the church.)
On the big day, Il Campo is stuffed to the brim with locals and tourists, as
the horses charge wildly around the square in this literally no-holds-barred
race. A horse can win even if its rider has fallen off. After the winner
crosses the line, a 17th of
In the Palio, the feisty spirit of
While the actual Palio packs the city, you could
day-trip in from
The Palio is not some folkloristic event kept alive
for tour groups. It's a real medieval moment. When I considered filming it for
my public-television show, local authorities said they'd rather not publicize
it. If you're there for the race -- packed onto the square with 15,000 people,
all hungry for victory -- you won't see much, but you will feel the spirit of
http://www.heraldnet.com/article/20080316/LIVING05/902345565
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