Saturday,
November 29, 2008
Paradise in This Life: Exquisite Estates
and Gardens around
The
ANNOTICO Report
Villa
Lante, created in the 16th century, unites flawless
geometry and fantastical water features and landscaping to tell the tale of
mankind’s taming of nature.
Aah,
Estates
and gardens around
AGNAIA,
It lies atop a
hill about 60 miles north of
Soon after I
moved to
I took a
When summer's
heat settled in, I fled the city almost every weekend, navigating a rental car
to the Grande Raccordo Annulare,
the ring road that encircles
In 1578, Cardinal
Giovanni Francesco Gambara was suffering an attack of
gout when Pope Gregory XIII arrived at the Villa Lante.
When the pope saw Gambara's exquisite and obviously
costly estate above the hamlet of Bagnaia, he
canceled the cardinal's allowance.
It couldn't have
been a good day for Gambara.
When I visited
Villa Lante, I was blessed in every way. On the drive
from
I turned off the
highway near Orte into a landscape of volcanic hills,
crater lakes and strange, eroded canyons. A winding country road took me to L'Ombricolo -- which means "the little shady
spot" -- a bed-and-
breakfast that occupies a
tile-roofed farmhouse surrounded by sunflowers.
Once I settled
in, inn proprietor Dawne Alstrom
gave me directions to Bomarzo, a garden as remarkable
as Villa Lante in its own weird way.
I found Bomarzo, a privately owned "garden of monsters,"
as it's called, in a narrow, wooded valley about a 20-minute drive from L'Ombricolo. From the parking lot it looked like a cheesy
tourist attraction featuring monumental statues of dragons and sphinxes set
among the trees.
But once I
ventured in, I realized something profoundly strange goes on in the woods at Bomarzo.
Stone colossi
wrestle to the death in the dell.
An elephant
pinions a Roman legionnaire in its trunk, and a precariously tilted house seems
to totter at the edge of a terrace.
Around the bend,
an ogre's head rears up, its wide-open maw revealing a tongue in the shape of a
stone table, where visitors can picnic while being devoured.
Art historians
attribute the bizarre stone gallery, created circa 1570 by Vicino
Orsini, to the rise of the Mannerist style of art
that evolved after the High Renaissance. But psychology might also explain it.
Orsini was a papal soldier who
retired, disillusioned, from the wars that wracked the Italian peninsula in the
16th century. At Bomarzo, I like to think he used his
still-intact prankish sense of humor to vanquish his demons.
Villa Lante is comparatively demure, intent on perfection, not
astonishment -- without the distraction of flowers -- and unchangingly green
through the seasons.
When I passed
through the gate, I caught a strong whiff of freshly clipped boxwood from the
parterres around the Fountain of the Moors on the lower level, the interlocking
hedges shaped in spirals, squares and circles with little lemon trees peeking
out.
Then I turned
around and saw the chain of fountains that decorates the hill. Drawn from
springs in the nearby San Valentino hills, the watercourse emerges from the
highest grotto, known as the Fountain of the Flood, then vanishes and reappears
in pools and channels that flow between the two palazetti,
or "little palaces."
There's the
Fountain of the Dolphins, richly emblazoned with the Gambara
crayfish crest; the scalloping Chain Fountain, as ramblingly beautiful as any
mountain stream; the long Cardinal's Table, with troughs of running water that
served as finger bowls for Gambara's dinner guests;
and the classic Renaissance garden on the lowest terrace.
I read in Helena
Attlee's
To understand the
garden's symbolism isn't to take any less sensual delight in it. I couldn't
keep from dipping my toes in the cold, flowing water of the Chain Fountain. I
ran my palms across the moss that clothes Villa Lante's
stone nymphs and goddesses. I sat at the Cardinal's Table, half waiting for Gambara's liveried servants to serve lunch.
On another summer
getaway, I stopped to see a garden in the medieval town of
Ninfa, open to visitors on
selected summer weekends, is a garden for wandering with a book and a dog, for
lying in fresh-cut grass and dreaming, especially in April and May when the
ornamental cherries blossom.
As it was, I saw Ninfa with a Caetani Foundation
tour during the stultifying height of summer, when only a few pink roses
lingered to suggest the garden's spring quintessence.
We entered near a
spring-water lake that feeds the
Protected from
extreme weather by the
La Landriana is an estate a few miles north and inland from
To see it, I
booked a tour with Sue Webster, an English-speaking guide and avid gardener who
lives nearby.
La Landriana's story starts with a bag of seeds given to the
marquise by a friend, which she planted and watched spring up. After that, she
ordered more plants native to the Mediterranean,
In 1967, she
summoned an English garden architect, Russell Page, to La Landriana.
Page was a
devotee of Renaissance formal gardens, which were then out of style.
The relationship
between Page and Taverna, who died in 1997, proved especially
fruitful as the master brought order and subtlety to the passionate
experimenter's diverse plant collection.
Page divided the
hillside garden into 32 themed "rooms," as he called them, using Taverna's nurslings to create subtle artistic ensembles of
texture, scent, shape and color. As a result, La Landriana
is a gardener's garden, known among connoisseurs for its subtle design and
unusual variety of plants.
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