
Monday, December 7, 2009
Memories of Dominic to Dominick's
to Domino's to "Jersey Shore"
Professor Carolyn
Balducci, UMichigan, reminisces about the early Dominick's and the later
Domino's and the disconnect with "Jersey Shore".
From Dominic to Dominick's to Domino's
to "Jersey Shore"
The pulling of advertising by Domino's
Pizza of "Jersey Shore" should make the late Dominic DeVarti (1924-2001)
founder of a much beloved campus eatery/beer garden/bar, Dominick's (812
Monroe Street, Ann Arbor) smile down from heaven.
The cafe, founded in the 1960's, was
a favorite place of mine since it was only a couple of blocks from my office
in the East Quad. (I taught creative writing there from 1977 to 2002.)
Dominic and I had a special relationship because our families originated
from Benevento. He would greet me with a kiss on the cheek, a cup of espresso,
maybe a pastry and we'd sit and chat.
The food was great and moderately
priced. The ambiance of groups of students and faculty was noisy and cheerful.
The garden, which included a lovely fountain, was very special: on sunny
Thursday afternoons, my students would know where to find me during office
hours! And on bitter cold Michigan winter days, the warmth of the place
and hot soup (served in a bread 'boule') would revive me. On the interior
walls hung memorabilia such as photos, posters, objet d'arts, purloined
Italian rail road and street signs.
There were no images of religious
figures. I liked to gaze at the hand painted panels from antique Sicilian
carts or caretti siciliani which Dominic hung high on the cafe's walls,
out of reach, ever reminiscent of the medieval past from which universities
emerged.
What's the connection between a family
owned mid-western bistro and a billion-dollar pizza franchise? Well, many
years ago, one of Dominic DeVarti's employees was Tom Monaghan, a college
student, who learned about pizza making from Dominic. Monaghan & his
brother established their own pizza-business around the concept of door-to-door
delivery. (There's no comparison with the fine pizzas made by the DiVartis.
If the Monaghans ever learned how to make pizza, they lost the recipe!)
The Monaghans set up shop at a store owned by DeVarti in Ann Arbor's neighbor,
Ypsilanti, near the campus of Eastern Michigan University. They kept the
name of Dominick's Pizza and, if memory serves me, I believe there was
some acrimony over their continued use of the name, because Dominick's
Pizza changed to Domino's in 1965.
Tom Monaghan has done many charitable
things with his money, but he is considered to be more retrograde than
most American Catholics and he is particularly unpopular among liberal
Ann Arborites because he has given financial support to ultra-conservative
causes.
I don't know for a fact if the recent
decision to withdraw Domino Pizza's corporate sponsorship from the potentially
offensive series, "Jersey Shore," had anything whatsoever to do with Tom
Monaghan's tacit respect for Dominic DeVarti's enormous pride in his Italian
heritage, but in a round-about way, it may wipe the Karmic slate clean.
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