
Monday, April 5, 2010
Fernet Branca: The Trendy Italian
Drink called "Liqueur of Hades"
Fernet Branca,
is made up of over 40 different kinds of herbs and spices, the drink is
often consumed as a digestif -- to help aid digestion after a large meal
-- or as a hangover cure. It was first developed in Italy in 1845, by man
named Bernardino Branca.
Fernet Branca: The Trendy Drink That
Makes You Gag
Fernet Branca has been called
the "liqueur of Hades," but adventurous San Franciscans just can't get
enough of it
Salon;By Thomas Rogers; Friday, April
2, 2010
What is it? Fernet Branca is an Italian
liqueur with a taste so pungent that your first sip has a good chance of
making you either want to throw up or wash your mouth out with Pepto Bismol.
Made up of over 40 different kinds of herbs and spices, the drink is often
consumed as a digestif -- to help aid digestion after a large meal -- or
as a hangover cure. After more than a century of popularity in Italy, Fernet's
challenging taste is becoming increasingly trendy in the United States
-- especially in San Francisco (So much so that, as Tasting Table recently
pointed out, several Bay Area bar-restaurants have begun offering it on
tap.)
Fernet Branca's intense effect on
the palate is largely due to its extreme bitterness, though the drink also
contains, among other exotic herbs, myrrh, gentian root, saffron, zedoary,
chamomile, cardamom, aloe, and something called cinchona (the exact formula
is kept strictly secret). San Francisco Weekly called it "black-licorice
flavored Listerine," Robert Misch, the former head of the Wine and Food
Society of New York called it the "liqueur of Hades" and wrote that drinking
it is "like hitting yourself on the head with a hammer," and Betsy von
Furstenberg was suspended from Actor's Equity in 1960 after secretly putting
it into Tony Randall's onstage drink.
The drink is often consumed as a
shot, or mixed with Coke. It often overtakes anything it is mixed with,
but the Wall Street Journal's Eric Felten suggests mixing it with
Vermouth and Bourbon.
Where did it come from? The formula
for Fernet Branca was first developed in Italy in 1845, by man named Bernardino
Branca (the Fernet was added for marketing reasons). After subjecting family
members to a tasting of his new concoction, he went about marketing it
as medicine -- to ease menstrual pains, promote digestion and prevent aging
-- and somehow managed to turn it into a hugely popular product. Naturally,
when the great wave of Italian immigration hit the United States, it brought
along love for the trenchant liqueur which, thanks to its supposed medicinal
properties, even managed to stay on the market through Prohibition.
Despite this auspicious start, the
liqueur never really made it huge mainstream U.S. market (which may have
something to do with its tendency to make people cry). But in the last
few years, its profile has once again been rising among connoisseurs and
bartenders. According to Felten, Fernet's repellent taste is becoming something
of a challenge for know-it-all foodies, and its appeal to the little-stimulated
bitter-tasting part of the palate could be another reason for its sudden
ressurgence.
Who's drinking it? Bizarrely, a disproportionate
number of San Franciscans. The City by the Bay is responsible for 35 percent
of the country's Fernet Branca consumption (the reason remains a mystery,
but it might have something to do withthe city's general affection for
eccentricity). Also: Argentinians. Fernet Branca and Coke is so popular
it's basically Argentina's national cocktail. (In case you're looking for
a personal theme song for your Fernet and Coke consumption, check out Argentinian
band Vilma Palma's "Fernet Con Cola.") Most trashily, a large number of
Germans apparently enjoy drinking it with Red Bull.
Longevity rating: 6 (out of 10) Clearly,
Fernet Branca isn't a new phenomenon -- and the millions of Branca-loving
Italians and Argentinians must be on to something -- but the extremity
of the drink's taste is likely going to restrict it, for the foreseable
future, to a small number of adventure-seeking drinkers (and those crazy,
crazy San Franciscans
http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/04/02/fernet_branca/
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