
Tuesday, May 04, 2010
Wiener Schnitzel: Originated by Italians?
Renowned Field
Marshal Count Joseph Radetzky, a commander over the Austrian troops at
war with Italy in the mid-1800s, was well known for the military and political
information he fed back to the Austrian Kaiser. This information extended
to food, as he reported on a dish he had discovered and enjoyed in the
north of Italy, cotoletta Milanese - a thick, breaded veal cutlet on the
bone.
The Viennese were quick to try the
new recipe, dredging a much thinner slice of veal in both flour and breadcrumbs
and frying it in lard rather than butter, like the Italians do.
However, The legend goes further that
the Italians adopted the recipe from the Spaniards, who in turn had gleaned
it from the Moors, who had brought in the technique from the Byzantine
Empire.
Yet in Journalism, they do say when
the Myth is more interesting than the Truth, tell the Myth :)
Great Dishes of the World: And the
Wiener is
The Times, Johannesburg, South Africa;
By Hilary Biller; May 2, 2010
Protected by Austrian law, a true
Wiener schnitzel is made with veal
CHEF Walter Ulz emphatically gesticulates
to the lemon wedge on top of the Wiener schnitzel he just made.
"Forget about slices of egg and pieces
of anchovy, it's always lemon that is served with a traditional Wiener
schnitzel."
Like so many originals, the schnitzel
too has suffered its fair share of adulterations.
"The Germans serve it with a thick
white sauce, dunke," said Ulz disdainfully. "It's disgusting and would
make any Austrian run away."
If one believes the legends that
surround this dish, the Austrians have little room to pontificate about
something that evolved from a Milanese original.
The story goes that renowned Field
Marshal Count Joseph Radetzky, a commander over the Austrian troops at
war with Italy in the mid-1800s, was well known for the military and political
information he fed back to the Austrian Kaiser. This information extended
to food, as he reported on a dish he had discovered and enjoyed in the
north of Italy, cotoletta Milanese - a thick, breaded veal cutlet on the
bone.
The Viennese were quick to try the
new recipe, dredging a much thinner slice of veal in both flour and breadcrumbs
and frying it in lard rather than butter, like the Italians do.
The legend goes further that the
Italians adopted the recipe from the Spaniards, who in turn had gleaned
it from the Moors, who had brought in the technique from the Byzantine
Empire.
Over the years, the schnitzel has
evolved and there is a pork version, which is believed to be more flavoursome
and less dry. Although the pork version cannot be sold as an authentic
Wiener schnitzel, the Austrians label it a schnitzel. Like many originals
in Austria today, the term Wiener schnitzel is protected by law, and any
Wiener schnitzel called by that name has to be made from veal.
In sharing some of his expertise
in making an authentic schnitzel, Ulz says it's the combination of flour
and breadcrumbs that gives it the crisp coating. He uses fresh white breadcrumbs,
warning not to "press the crumbs too tightly over the meat".
Thin slices of veal are seasoned
with salt and pepper and lemon juice and left to stand before coating in
flour, lightly beaten egg and breadcrumbs...
He considers the schnitzel "too passé"
to include on his restaurant menu - the Linger Longer in Sandton -- but
he does get many requests from diners for the dish, which he happily puts
together.
http://www.timeslive.co.za/lifestyle/food/
article424132.ece/Great-Dishes-of-the-
World--And-the-Wiener-is
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