
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Glitzy Forte dei Marmi, Tuscan Resort,
Overrun by Russians
The Russians
are coming..... The Russians are coming...... To Italy drive up prices
and buy up choice properties, driving Italians to "hinterland."
The glut of Russian Millionaires
resulted from the US encouragement of Communist Russia to embrace Capitalism,
sell off its State's Industries to KGB Agents for pennies on the dollar
resulting in one of the greatest transfer of wealth from The People.......
to the Few.
Italian Resort of Forte dei Marmi
Turns against Rich Tourists
Glitzy Tuscan retreat is trying
to stop locals being forced out by wealthy Russian visitors
The Observer; Tom Kington in Forte
dei Marmi; Sunday July 4, 2010
After years of welcoming well-heeled
tourists from around the world with open arms, one of Tuscany's smartest,
most discreet beach resorts is in revolt against outsiders, wealthy or
not.
Forte dei Marmi " the traditional
summer retreat for Italian captains of industry, writers and film stars"
is changing the law to try to stop locals fleeing because of house prices
driven out of control by incoming Russian millionaires. The town's combative
mayor, Umberto Buratti, is reserving space next to luxury villas with sea
views for new homes that will only be sold to locally-born buyers or long-term
residents. Other Italian resorts with similar problems will monitor the
experiment with interest.
"We want to safeguard the character
of the town instead of seeing it turn into a place with no ties, as anonymous
as a motorway service station," Buratti said....
Despite the economic crisis that
has kept some smart Muscovites at home, local estate agents expect up to
500 Russian families to descend this summer, following in the footsteps
of super-rich visitors such as Roman Abramovich and splashing out up to
€100,000 at a time to rent villas for the season – albeit a snip compared
with the €20m reportedly paid out to buy the biggest villas nestling
behind bougainvilleas between the broad beaches and Apuan Alps.
"Five million is the norm now, but
if you go just a few miles inland prices drop by two thirds, which is where
the locals have disappeared to," said a local estate agent, Umberto Giannecchini.
On the seafront, Humvees and Ferraris
descend on beach clubs like Twiga, where €1,000 will reserve a table
in the VIP section and Russians spend up to €15,000 on a night out.
It is all a far cry from Forte dei
Marmi's 16th-century origins, when Michelangelo built a road from quarries
inland to load marble on to waiting ships. The artistic tradition continued
into the 20th century with the arrival of Thomas Mann, Aldous Huxley, Giacomo
Puccini and Henry Moore, followed by industrial dynasties such as the Agnellis
and the Morattis.
"Despite their wealth, the Italians
here have always loved elegant simplicity and understatement," said hotelier
Paolo Corchia, pointing to the tradition of CEOs and aristocrats shopping
by bicycle at the town's family-run shops. Where those stores once proliferated,
Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Miu Miu – with a shop window full of coyote
fur stoles – now draw in the Russians.
The Milanese agree with the locals'
revolt. "I want to bring the local artisans back in the centre," said Milly
Moratti, wife of Inter Milan chairman Massimo, "the fabulous tailors and
focaccia bread sellers I remember as a child that have been almost completely
replaced by designer stores."
Holding out on Forte dei Marmi's
main square is Vale, the bakery which has turned out focaccia since 1924.
"We are thinking of selling up since our traditional clientele is dying
out and the Russians don't like focaccia," said the owner, Daniela Nardine,
though the mayor's intervention may yet change her mind.
Born and bred in Forte dei Marmi
and the son of a tailor, Mayor Buratti said he is seeking to preserve a
local culture handed down from the fierce tribes who defied the Roman empire
and the Roman slaves who later settled, leaving traces of their accent
in the local dialect. But he is not getting too misty eyed. "The locals
were the first to profit from the rising house prices by selling up and
buying houses in the hinterland," he said. "That is why there will be a
ban on selling the new houses for 20 years."
If he can defend local stock from
extinction, Buratti is happy for some of the Russians to stay, generously
conceding that the visitors from the east have become more refined over
the years.
"They have come a long way from the
early 90s, when they would order the most expensive Brunello red on the
menu then dilute it with water," he said. Locals recount how one oligarch
even bought a bicycle and hired an Italian cycling champ to teach him to
ride it.
But at the Piero beach club, a family-run
bastion of old-fashioned wooden huts and blue-blooded sunbathers, the Russians
are still few and far between. "Visitors here must understand you don't
need to show off," said manager Roberto Santini. "The Russians come in,
look around, wonder why we are a landmark, then leave."
As lifeguard Lionello Sacchelli watched
over bathers including a former Italian finance minister and a football
star, he recalled his favourite bather, Florentine aristocrat Anna Corsini,
who was taking dips until she died last year at 98. "She was exquisite,"
he said. "She didn't care about designer labels and always said 'please'
and 'thank you'."
http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2010/jul/04/italian-resort-forte-dei-marmi-tourists
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