
Tuesday, July 06, 2010
700 year old "Palio" - Siena Horse
Race Winners Banner Raises Dispute
No horse race
is more sacred in Italy than the Palio, (banner) in Siena which traces
its lineage back 700 years. This year, however, the hotly contested chase
has taken an unexpectedly ecumenical and disputed twist.
The painter of the banner chosen was
Muslim, causing some dissension, AND while traditionally the banner honors
the Virgin Mary, the artist Alì Hassoun, 46, painted above the Virgin
Mary’s face, in Arabic, the title of the 19th chapter of the Koran, which
is dedicated to the Madonna. In her crown, an Arab crescent, the symbol
of Islam, is placed on one side of the cross; a Star of David, the symbol
of Judaism, is on the other side.
In a Sacred Italian Race, Some Bristle
at the Prize
The New York Times; By Gaia Pianigiani;
July 3, 2010
SIENA, Italy — No horse race is more
sacred in Italy than the Palio, which traces its lineage back 700 years.
This year, however, the hotly contested chase has taken an unexpectedly
ecumenical " and disputed " twist.
For the first time, a Muslim painter
was asked to design the Palio, or banner, that the winner takes home at
the end of the race, which is conducted two days every year around Siena’s
distinctive shell-shaped square.
Not everyone was pleased with the
choice, though that was not evident Friday evening, when residents of the
winning district, or contrada, as Siena’s 17 neighborhoods within the city
walls are known, jumped over fencing that lined the square to grab the
Palio, crying and shouting with joy.
The horse representing their contrada
had won the race, and they did not seem particularly bothered that the
banner has generated controversy in the local and national media during
the past weeks over what some have called "a profanation" of the Sienese
tradition.
The artist Alì Hassoun, 46,
who was born in Lebanon but moved in 1982 to Italy, where he gained citizenship,
painted St. George as a knight wearing a black-and-white kaffiyeh. Above
the Virgin Mary’s face, in Arabic, is the title of the 19th chapter of
the Koran, which is dedicated to the Madonna. In her crown, an Arab crescent,
the symbol of Islam, is placed on one side of the cross; a Star of David,
the symbol of Judaism, is on the other side.
“My Palio talks about spirituality
in general, about religions, about the possible encounter among the three
monotheistic religions that allows us to transcend our own faith," Mr.
Hassoun said in a telephone interview.
The local administration, which commissioned
the banner, chose Mr. Hassoun because his art is traditional, highly figurative
and easy to enjoy, Mayor Maurizio Cenni of Siena said at a news conference
a few hours before Friday’s race.
Traditionally, the rectangular silk
Palio honors the Virgin Mary. Palio rules passed by the local administration
say that the design requires the Madonna’s image at the top, the date of
the race, Siena’s black-and-white shield, and possibly the symbols of the
10 contradas chosen to compete in each race.
The tradition of having the banner
painted by a non-Sienese artist began in the 1970s. Since then, national
and international artists like Renato Guttuso of Italy and Fernando Botero
of Colombia have done the honors. Some of these banners were criticized
as too secular.
When the banner was presented at
City Hall on June 26, more than six months after its design was commissioned
by the local administration, the archbishop of Siena, Colle Val d’Elsa
and Montalcino, Msgr. Antonio Buoncristiani, noted that the representation
had to resemble the face of the Madonna of Provenzano, to whom this July’s
race is dedicated.
Monsignor Buoncristiani said he appreciated
Mr. Hassoun’s banner in its entirety, but asked that in the future his
office be shown the preliminary sketch so it could give an opinion on its
religious aspects because it is blessed and shown in church.
Then newspapers began weighing in,
starting with the daily newspaper La Padania, the house organ of the anti-immigrant
Northern League. A headline on one of its articles read, "The hands of
Islam on Siena’s Palio."
La Nazione, the largest local daily
newspaper, published a letter by two citizens pleading with the archbishop
not to allow "an image that is not Christian" to be blessed in the Church
of St. Mary of Provenzano, part of a tradition the evening before the race.
And the Vatican expert Antonio Socci,
writing in the conservative newspaper Libero, said "something serious"
was happening in Siena "from the spiritual and symbolic point of view."
The archbishop’s office responded
to the heated debate with a statement acknowledging that placing symbols
of the three monotheistic religions on the Virgin’s crown was "problematic"
and that using a quote from the Koran "lends itself to debate" The statement
said the archbishop would make an official comment on the issue after the
race, possibly on Tuesday or Wednesday.
Northern Italy and the historically
left-wing Tuscany are not new to such religious clashes, often orchestrated
by political parties. For years, in Colle Val d’Elsa, northwest of Siena,
the construction of a mosque has pitted the left-wing administration against
a group of citizens who formed an antimosque committee that helped elect
two local council members who brought pressure that delayed the building.
On various occasions, pigs’ heads were found on the building site. The
mosque has been completed, but it is waiting for interior furnishings and
permits before it is used for prayer services.
In May, the Northern League, saying
it was honoring the memory of the Tuscan writer Oriana Fallaci who vehemently
opposed Islam in the final days of her life, began a new campaign against
the construction of a mosque in Greve in Chianti. But Greve’s mayor, Alberto
Bencistà, said the league was overreacting. A local association
had offered local Muslims only a room to meet in, he said; there were no
plans to build a mosque. Nonetheless, the Northern League held an unofficial
referendum against a mosque in the small town.
The Palio is a medieval feast dedicated
to the Virgin Mary with deep religious roots, particularly in Siena, where
the Virgin is especially venerated. It allows for breaches of church decorum:
the horses, for example, are brought into churches where they, and the
jockeys, are blessed by the priests of the local districts. The banner,
or "rag" as it is known in Siena, is an object of devotion not only for
the two days of the race, July 2 and Aug. 16, but also throughout the year.
“We don’t really care about the painting,"
said Francesco Bartali, 25. "For a contrada person, all that matters is
to win the rag. Even if it was blank, we’d still cry over it."
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/04/world/europe/04palio.html?_r=1
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